by Paul Heney
Last updated: 8:00 PM ET, Sat September 2, 2023
1. Save money on attractions. When my husband and I took our two older sons (16 and 22) to Spain for summer vacation, we knew we had to be smart about finances. Taking four “adults” to dinner or a museum can get expensive very quickly. So we opted for Go City’s All-Inclusive Passes in both Madrid and Barcelona. These passes allow you to visit as many attractions as you want within a one to seven consecutive day period.
We found it to be perfect for us, as we wanted to cram a lot into our Madrid sightseeing in particular. We used our passes for everything from a silly-to-teens wax museum to a guided tour of The Prado, one of Europe’s great art museums. We also discovered things we probably wouldn’t have otherwise thought to do, such as a e-bike tour (a true highlight of the trip!) to a relaxing hour-long boat cruise of the Barcelona waterfront.
There’s also a Go City Explorer Pass, where you have the option to choose a two- to seven-day pass that can be used anytime within a 60-day period—ideal for visitors who want to explore at a more leisurely pace.
2. Stay gay. While we’d occasionally used Airbnb for trips, until this vacation, we had never tried Misterb&b. This queer booking site allows travelers to reserve homes, apartments, even hotels that are queer-owned or -friendly. We were impressed with the options available while searching, from things like a shared space or an entire condo to being family friendly or having a gym or hot tub. Interestingly, the site was founded by a couple who’d had trouble finding the right type of accommodations in Barcelona years ago.
We used the site to book our Madrid stay, and ended up with an entire apartment owned by a gay couple from Washington, D.C. It was everything we needed and located quite close to the queer neighborhood of Chueca. It was so convenient to text with our hosts leading up to the trip, and they gave us some incredible local restaurant recommendations, as well as what gay bars and clubs were their favorites. By the time the vacation rolled around, it felt like we were staying at a friend’s house!
3. Don’t forget hotel restaurant options. We had plenty of wonderful meals throughout our trip, but two of the best were at rooftop restaurants in hotels. While in the U.S., my family tends to avoid hotel restaurants, the quality and service (and incredible chefs) you often find in many European countries is off the charts.
Gorgeous architecture at the Four Seasons Madrid (Photo Credit: Paul Heney)
In Madrid, the Four Seasons’ Dani restaurant is located on the rooftop, with plenty of shade under enormous umbrellas. The space is uniquely beautiful, with the hotel’s historic cupola standing guard over the diners. And the view in every direction is breathtaking. Highlights of the menu include the handmade tortellini, capelli d’angelo, and the beef tenderloin stroganoff. And don’t forget to order some tableside guacamole here!
Similarly, in Barcelona, we had a memorable lunch at the top floor restaurant at Majestic Hotel & Spa Barcelona. Surrounded by views of the city and the Sagrada Familia, we dined on succulent pulled pork sandwiches, crispy tandoor chicken, and veal burgers. Everything here is immaculately prepared and flavorful, from the salads to the side dishes. And service at Majestic (which also boasts the world’s top-rated penthouse!) was top notch. Stay for the incredible Ferro Rocher and Nutella ice cream sandwich, perhaps the dessert highlight of the trip—it’s enough to feed four or six!
4. Plan travel strategically. Depending on your plans, make sure you’re creative with your airline tickets. We didn’t want to overspend there or have to double back, so we purchased open-jaw tickets. Flying from home to Madrid and then from Barcelona back home was the same price, and it allowed us to try out the high-speed train from Madrid to Barcelona. That also allowed us to experience the lovely Spanish countryside, with scenery as varied as orchards and mountains.
5. Plan your tours in advance. We’ve learned over the years that the right tour guide can make or break your experience. So make sure to do research online and also ask friends for recommendations.
For one day trip, we used Viator, a global experiences marketplace, which promotes hundreds of LGBTQ experiences and operators on its global site. The site also has insider’s guides from the real people behind the tours, hundreds of queer history tours in the U.S., and LGBTQ-friendly sightseeing tours throughout the globe. While our day trip wasn’t queer-focused, we read som many positive user comments that we jumped at it.
Guide Joana Wilhelm explains the history of the Sagrada Familia. (Photo Credit: Paul Heney)
Our “Three countries on one day” tour with Viator left Barcelona early and made the first stop in adorable Baga, Spain. Then we headed across the French border to Ax-les-Thermes, a medieval city known for its hot springs. There, we bought fresh bread, cheese, and sausage and had a spontaneous picnic in one of the city’s parks. Then we headed through the unbelievable Pyrenees Mountains to the tiny landlocked microstate of Andorra. Our tour guide was so helpful all along the way, the bus was comfortable, and the day was exhausting but so worthwhile!
For Barcelona itself, I had an ace up my sleeve. I’d toured once before with the lovely Joana Wilhelm of tour provider Private Cicerone. Knowing our kids would be instantly drawn to her fun, charismatic personality, we booked a private, custom tour with her to mix Antoni Gaudí architecture with some local sweets.
In between stops for chocolate and smoothies, we visited the incomparable Sagrada Familia and Güell Park, both highlights of Gaudí’s work in Barcelona. Joana deftly combined humor and history, and the kids were entranced and asked plenty of questions, delving into culture, food, and how locals live. The result was a day of education (shhh!) and plenty of fun. And that’s the recipe for a perfect family vacation, anywhere.
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