by Greg Custer
Last updated: 3:00 PM ET, Sat December 9, 2023
The Route of Volcanos would be nothing without some pinnacle
central Mexico experiences. Departing Mexico City, the itinerary continues
across three Mexican states that embody the country’s contrasting landscapes;
still to experience are archaeological sites, Amerindian villages, haciendas,
New Age spa retreats, and the country’s most architecturally stunning urban
area.
The Volcano Route continues 90 minutes south of Mexico City
in verdant Morelos State. A microcosm of Mexican cultural diversity,
tiny Morelos might pack more natural and human cultural diversity in a small
space than any of Mexico's central Mexican states.
Most visitors will want to experience the ancient and
spiritual vibe of the cliff-facing town of Tepoztlan. Here, Tesoros
Experiences offers four intimate and comfortable lodging choices, two of which
are fully-healed destination spas. Tepoz (population 35,000) can be overrun on
weekends and holidays, however, its midweek essence is one of Mexico’s most
magical village settings.
Facing a mountainside of green tufted sheer cliffs, the
village sits in its shadow; the cliffs are both impossibly steep and enticingly
close. At its base is one of Mexico’s best (and surprisingly affordable)
destination spas, La Buena Vibra. Offered by Tesoros Experiences with a Namaste
Personal Healing experience, the resort is the brainchild of a British and
Mexican couple, whose overseas living, spirituality, and refined good taste
transformed a ten-acre parcel into a wellness and small-group retreat that
channels Tepoztlan’s spiritual essence.
A second destination spa is nearby at Hostal de la Luz,
offering a younger, more Buddhist energy that attracts wellness seekers wanting
small group classes, traditional spa services (their Temazcal ceremony is as
authentic as they come), and broad vistas of the area’s remarkable geology. The
accommodations are less lavish, with terraced pools, gardens, open-air meeting
rooms, and serenity.
In central Tepoztlan, above the village and facing the
city’s spiritual backdrop, are Casa Fernanda and the historic Posada
del Tepozteco. Casa Fernanda (14 rooms) balances modernism and Morelos and
Baja California cuisine at its excellent restaurant La Veladora.
A short cab ride up the hill is the converted hillside
estate, Posada del Tepozteco, a renowned Morelos landmark. “We focused on providing
an extraordinary Mexican experience with personality, comfort, sophistication
and luxury,” says owner Alejandro Camarena. There are 25 beautifully appointed,
modern colonial rooms and spacious suites across a terrace facing the village
and cliffs. The Posada has an interesting 70-year connection to Mexico’s grand
artists (as guests) and the Margarita cocktail. This story unfolds during a
tasting menu served across outdoor gardens and patios (another Tesoros
Experience).
A two-night stay in any of these four properties -- accompanied
by hikes, markets, and the village’s UNESCO World Heritage site -- would be
enough. But also find time to take in one of Mexico’s top five archaeological
experiences (Xochicalco) and the unique artesian spring river float at Las
Estacas (neither currently part of Tesoros Experiences, but easily added
onto your stay).
With two States still to go, the Route of the Volcanos, in
some ways, saves its best for last. It's a two-and-a-half-hour transfer to
downtown Puebla City, perhaps Mexico’s most architecturally stunning colonial-era,
Baroque gems. Combined with the neighboring State of Tlaxcala, there are
plenty of cultural wonders still to explore.
Puebla stands alone across Latin America as the touchstone
for the 16th-century Baroque movement that swept Europe (and the Americas).
Puebla City (Mexico’s grandest urban UNESCO World Heritage Site) was the test
bed for European ecclesiastical Orders who would evangelize New Spain (Mexico)
and build the country’s over 10,000 Catholic places of worship. Puebla City has
over 4,000 registered historic sites, and Tesoros Experiences has delightful
ways to connect with its history.
There are small group cooking classes, a Talavera pottery
class, a micro-distillery (Casa Zea making ancient Maize vodka accompanied
by a corn-based tasting menu), and chances to stroll the city’s remarkable, ornate
architecture. The city’s Museums are some of Mexico’s best (Amparo and Baroque in
particular).
Tesoros Experiences happen at refined lodging choices
ranging from the modern, post-industrial La Purificadora (uber-hip), the
highly stylized and intimate El Sueno, and the more authentically
colonial and award-winning Casa Reyna (reimagined by famed Mexico
architect Ricardo Legorreta amidst 18th century indigenous workers
quarters). All three include gastronomic or cultural experiences (local wine
and cheese pairing, tasting menu with local microbrews).
Now on to the Route’s last leg, it's a pleasant 60-minute
transfer to overlooked Tlaxcala State, a journey back in time across the
flank of La Malinche volcano, past ancient Maize fields and a patchwork of
Otomi indigenous villages.
Tesoros Experiences embraces two remarkable hotels. The Hacienda
Soltepec celebrates castle-esque architecture, Latin America’s only organic
golf course, and Mexico’s only museum devoted to making the frothy agave brew pulque.
Soltepec is a former pulque hacienda with 16th-century foundations and a late
19th-century Porfiriato styling that’s a visual delight. Bike into the town of Huamantla or lounge about the hotel’s historic courtyards, indoor pool, or fine dining
options.
A sister property (Hacienda Santa Barbara) is just a
20-minute transfer further up the slope of La Malinche. Santa Barbara is
another trip back in time, a minimally resorted 17th-century estate (with a belltower
temple) under the loving watch of Mexican photographer and visual artist Malena
Diaz. Corn and all its colors, shapes, and uses are celebrated in this six-room,
colonial fortress-like retreat that turns its back on modernity and the outside
world.
Tesoros
Experiences is
constantly refining and adding new experiences, striving to capture a
destination's essence for small groups and individual travelers. The
itineraries are not full-day escorted tours, allowing customers ample time to
explore independently. The Route of the Volcanos is a pinnacle peek at Mexico’s
modernity and 3,000 years of cultural flourishing that you don’t have to cross
oceans to experience.
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