by Paul Heney
Last updated: 7:00 PM ET, Thu December 26, 2019
Many travelers considering a trip to the East Coast seem to overlook Baltimore, and that's a shame. Located about a two-hour drive south of Philadephia or an hour north of the nation's capital, Maryland's largest city is a charming destination full of food, museums and urban delights. In fact, Baltimore calls itself Charm City, and after spending a long weekend there with my partner, I can certainly agree with the moniker.
Baltimore is also a city of neighborhoods. We decided to base ourselves in the lovely Mount Vernon neighborhood, convenient to the downtown attractions, but with a nice walkable vibe. It's also the city's historic "gayborhood," although some of the LGBTQ bars seem to be moving northward, as gentrification has begun.
We stayed in the gorgeous Hotel Indigo Baltimore, located in the city's first YMCA. The architecture is stunning, both inside and out-and our first-floor room was spacious and had an impressive vaulted ceiling. The on-site restaurant/bar is called Poets (with an emphasis on the Poe, as in Edgar Allen-one of the city's favorite sons). There's a nice selection of drinks here and we enjoyed the breakfast menu, which had some fun local specialties, like a crab and shrimp omelet.
A short walk from the hotel, Baltimore's Washington Monument predates D.C.'s more famous tribute to our first President-and is an impressive landmark in this part of the city. Climb the 227 steps for some great views of the surrounding city. When you're done, take a walk through the nearby Walters Art Museum, which boasts a broad collection that runs the gamut from ancient Egyptian art to masterpieces of the 19th century.
Make sure to take a walk through the George Peabody Library, an incredible research library completed in 1878. It inspired the library in the movie Beauty and the Beast. Through January 30th, the library has on display a moving (and anger-inducing) exhibit on the history of redlining in Baltimore, and how that practice affected people of color in the city and beyond.
We also enjoyed a tasty brunch at Charmed, a local café that opened earlier this year by two sisters, Donna and Danae. Their mother ran a restaurant when they were younger, and they make everything here from scratch, using many of their mom's recipes. There's a great neighborhood vibe here, and the food is delicious.
Explore Culture
The Walters Art Museum, also located in Mount Vernon, is said to be one of the country's best, and the variety of exhibits, ranging from armor to Egyptian times (as well as more modern artifacts) is impressive. Entrance is free. Another famed local attraction is the National Aquarium, located on the city's Inner Harbor development. The focus here is on conservation and education, and it's a pleasure to visit, with or without kids.
One of the city's more unique destinations is the American Visionary Art Museum, a short walk from the Inner Harbor. Full of folk art and whimsical displays (some more classically artistic than others), this museum celebrates all aspects of Americana. Much of the work is done by relatively unknown artists and there's plenty to discover here.
Food + Food Halls
We discovered a lot of good food in Baltimore, much of it in food halls. The Mount Vernon Marketplace has a bit of a foreign marketplace feel to it-not because of the food styles, but because some of the restaurant stalls are tucked into different corners, as opposed to being in a perfect grid pattern. You have to wander around a bit to find everything, and we successfully found some delightfully tasty burgers and poutine here.
Over in the cute Federal Hill neighborhood, the Cross Street Market is a nice lunch choice, with pizza, vegan options, tacos, burgers and poke bowls, which we decided on. And in Fell's Point, the Broadway Market is another great food hall we had to try after hearing about the yummy chicken and waffles offered there.
If you're in the mood for a more serious, romantic dinner, the B&O American Brasserie has some of the city's best food, with an elegant atmosphere in a lovely Beaux-Arts building. Come for the fun happy hour with great craft cocktails and stay for some fantastic entrees, like the pan-roasted sea scallops or the authentic Maryland crab cakes. The service here is fantastic and friendly.
One more great option for a memorable meal is Gunther & Co., located east of Fell's Point in the Brewers Hill area. This modern American restaurant is located in a restored brick factory building, providing a ton of character and a fun vibe. In addition to a nice selection of sharable appetizers and some creative salads, you'll find some flavorful and unexpected entrees, such as the Thai seafood hot pot and the tea-smoked duck breast.
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